Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit 864 votes, 72 comments. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. You can cleanse with sage, incense, salt water , sound, just about anything really. Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment . Depends where you'll be climbing. it does mean that you get way better at eyeballing placements though. Check the wires on the nuts for broken threads and rust. I'd be climbing mostly in Big and Little Cottonwood canyon… Best advice would be to see what he is planning on using it for. May 2020. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. However, if a hex has rotated into place tightly, you'll have to reverse the way it rotated in order to retrieve it. So I have been saving up money to start building a trad rack cause I want to start trad climbing. 5mm cord appears to be fairly common for this application, but use the thickest cord that will fit. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Posted by u/Dank3509 - 34 votes and 68 comments Posted by u/Splatx - 7 votes and 5 comments I belay with the grigri like a normal tube device, until my leader has to make a high clip. Alpine draws. It's kind of funny, because where I'm used to climbing in the Canadian Rockies, hexes are actually great pro for the loose blocky stuff. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. I've only been climbing for 3 years now and I love my hexes. I don't believe it. Don't be afraid to hit them hard with your nut tool; they're very durable. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. Micro Nuts. 4'-5' per length of cord, giving a loop somewhere in the 18" to 20" range is usually good, but this has a lot to do with your preference. ) I was scanning the FAQ page, and noticed under "No No's" it says: Fixed Anchors. And yes we are scared of falling. Once I finally got out and started using some cams, I got hooked. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. Nuts and hexes (although I dislike hexes) are perfectly adequate and safe. Nuts work best in vertical constrictions, but they can also be placed in diagonal cracks. Skip to main content. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. I carry a 5 m cordolette tied together with a double fisherman knot. Most of the time, you'll only be carrying one or two hexes. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. Stretchy, draw cord closure for the leg openings to cinch, and super soft. Best advice would be to see what he is planning on using it for. 82 votes, 51 comments. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. Crypto Posted by u/Cmac1625 - 73 votes and 32 comments Came across these old (70s?) Chouinard nuts and hexes on Craigslist. Trusting a cam is certainly easier than trusting a nut or hex. The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. true. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Unlike other sizes of hex the 8-mile hex scales up and down neatly as seen above to make tracking daily travel a breeze. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. 1. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. I'm looking to build my first trad rack and was wanting to go mainly or all passive pro. Double Cap. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Alternatively, 5. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Re-sling the hexes, though. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. In Valle orco, which is my go to climbing spot, thin cracks have a lot of constrictions and nuts work ok on them most of the time. The 70's & 80's had many instances of people just trying to engineer some new idea for pro in their garage. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. 27 votes, 41 comments. 1-pink tricam. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. . 73. 37 votes, 61 comments. Consider getting some second hand wires and maybe even (gasp!) hexes before getting cams. The home of Climbing on reddit. That being said, I love cams. You can hammer them into icy cracks. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. and everything else necessary for basic trad climbing (nut tool, non-lockers, lockers, etc. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Moved Permanently. Equip yourself with the best climbing nuts, cams, and hexes from leading brands such as DMM and Wild Country Climbing. I have a finger crack project that takes nuts really well but cams are a pain on it since the rock is irregular with big crystals. The hexes and stoppers are worth keeping, but not useful on a climbing wall. Then I do the index finger under the tab and thumb on cam as petzl recommend, throw out 1-2 arm lengths of slack in a second and I'm back to gripping the brake strand only like a normal ATC. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. If you’re not climbing much above 5. Hexes: No. 75m gives the correct length for single looped cams. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. 5mm Dyneema cord can be used for all sizes down to Hex Size 3. Double up 2-7. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". My most regular climbing pants right now are The North Face Beyond the Wall pants. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. ) Came here to say this, Malco reversible bits are the best. Full set of BD nuts (including the smallest three sizes). Feb 15, 2025 · I remember my insecurity of going from pins/nuts to just nuts in the early 1970's, but that was a matter of ethics, so I did everything I could to eliminate pins from the rack. Sport draws. it's dangerous. We’re going to climb our first multi-pitch (Devil’s Tower) in a month, and have no idea how to… Moved Permanently. They end up being my doubles for #2, and #3 BD cams. I mean most lines of cams (Friends, Dragons, Camalots) have the same color scheme these days. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. when you start aid 1. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). As nuts/chocks they are far more prone to be loose fitting because their shape is not optimal to be used as passive pro. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. I agree. Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. They probably work best in smooth cracks. It may or may not have a flange. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. For unknown long climbs . The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. so i wouldn't waste the money on hexes just go straight for the best gear in climbing. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. My rack is slowly coming together but right now I am borrowing gear when I lead from my fellow climbers. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 1m is perfect for Hexes and other nuts as well as replacing tape on double looped cams, whilst 0. e. And I really love them nuts. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. Those holds (in good gyms) are moved monthly or so. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. You really can do almost anything on passive gear. It has bolts at the first belay station and if you have long runners you can use the bolts at the top of the adjacent route. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. But for the record; things harder than I'll ever climb were established with nuts and hexes. There are other useful hexes beyond Evil Eye and Slumber - Protective Luck and Fortune come to mind - and if you’re going for a Hex splash, it’s probably worth investing into the full kit since Protective and Fortune are also extended by Cackle. From what I've seen, 6 mile hexes seem to be the most typical, any thought about why? Sep 20, 2010 · I have a set of DMM torque nuts that are unquestionably the best hexes on the market. They're both metallic lock nuts. The Phoenix (13a) for example. My girlfriend has a birthday coming up and I would like to surprise her with some new trad gear, since it is expensive and she is just starting out… 19 votes, 13 comments. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. If you must carry a full rack, they can be racked in groups of 2-4 per carabiner. 0). DMM Peenut Best for All-Around Small Nuts. 75. I would not use the locking carabiner, there have been significant advances since then. I know the DMM nut color coding by heart now, but honestly I prefer the BD way of using the same color coding on both their cams and nuts. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. Aside from the extendable sling, the shape is awesome and they are well sized. 550 votes, 31 comments. Pay attention to which way the nut would be pulled in the event of a fall. Cams from 000-4 and doubles form 0. witchling here and in the research I’ve done so far, i’ve heard a lot of more experienced witches advise against hexes and curses because they believe it’s unethical to use your power for a negative purpose. Read Time - 9 minutes. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. 75. Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. 75-2. In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. 3-3 Wild country zero friends . tbh there’s someone i really want revenge on, and while i aspire to be the Business, Economics, and Finance. I would agree and disagree with S Denny. Don't use an Aluminum carabiner and a steel carabiner clipped together. The decision to hex or not has a lot of factors in my opinion. A dab of wood glue in the "teeth" of the t-nut (the ones that bite the flat piece, not the threads) isn't a bad idea to cut down on the odds of it moving. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. In normal nut and cam placements they are far less stable than nuts or cams. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. Crypto 302 votes, 29 comments. 6kn is good enough for a marginal piece of lead protection, but it is not enough for a belay anchor that can experience high forces due to high factor falls. Comparing sizes #1 green, #2 green, #3 gold Torque Nuts are almost the same size in all setting positions within one or two mm as the #5 green, #6 red, #7 gold Rockcentrics. If you have incense, open a window and move the incense around the room to all of the corners and say an affirmation like " This space is clear of all negative Remember to NOT sling trees. They're pretty rugged too, no rips but some pilling, and they've been put through some shit. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. $80. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. BD makes the holes kind of small for this. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. This shape is considered more secure in flares and pin scars. American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. I have black diamond stoppers, and I'm… Business, Economics, and Finance. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. In which case, you can either put them on the same carabiner with your big nuts (for small hexes), or clip them further back on your harness on their own separate carabiner (for bigger sizes). I haven't used them for furniture, but they're what rock climbing gyms use to attach plastic holds to the plywood walls. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. A set from 0. When I started getting into trad, I thought I was gonna hate them, and was going to rely on mainly nuts, hexes, and tricams. A gift cert to a climbing supply store? There are a few cool climbing movies on netflix watch instantly but I don't know what I would suggest to buy(180 degrees south, to the limit[am limit in german]). I still believe that the energy we put out returns to us. Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut. 1-. Offset Nuts: Rather than curved surfaces, these feature a wedge with a top-to-bottom taper and a front-to-back taper. In val di mello my perfect (money not an issue) rack would be; Dmm dragon . Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Unless it is a good tricam placement, I practically expect them to walk out on me after a bit in their active mode and place other gear accordingly. It took me years of climbing on gear here to figure it out but they are actually useful as fuck. Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. In contrast, I find the issue of nuts/cams vs. While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. They are great to have if there are a lot of horizontals. I'm just starting to build a rack, and wanted to get an idea of if they're still… Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. Nuts Buying Guide. Came here to say this, Malco reversible bits are the best. Set of DMM offset nuts. Posted by u/Horse_Glue_Knower - 5 votes and 29 comments Use 7 mm cord - it makes a huge difference in strength. Black Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. The weight however can not be complained about at all Apr 13, 2025 · Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. I think the torque nuts are a cool design and if I was wealthy I'd probably get some. I've been climbing for a little over a year now, and just today decided to see if there was a climbing subreddit (dunno why it hadn't occurred to me to look before. Anyone who says that stoppers are all the same, have never climbed pitches that have finicky gear and aren’t protectable without good nut placements. Posted by u/Sigmund--Fraud - 29 votes and 71 comments Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments My most regular climbing pants right now are The North Face Beyond the Wall pants. And #4 purple Torque Nut is a little smaller than the #9 purple Rockcentrics. For a easy start, do Birthday Ridge(5. These essential pieces of climbing gear provide reliable protection in a variety of rock types and conditions, ensuring your safety during your ascent. Oct 31, 2024 · Best Overall Climbing Nut. The disadvantage of slung hexes vs stiff things like wired nuts or cams is that they are difficult to set at arm's length. $65. just cams more a matter of flexibility. A Jet nut is flanged and has a very thin wall in the threaded portion. g. A C nut, the term I'm familiar with, has thick walls and a rounded top. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. What do you have so far? you could get some quickdraws or a set of nuts/hexes or 1 cam for about the same price. Posted by u/sk07ch - 2 votes and 11 comments Posted by u/kvadro_psi - 1 vote and no comments Adjama Is my go to as well. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. Business, Economics, and Finance. No strong opinion about harnesses, helmets and ropes yet. 77. The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. The first nuts used in climbing were literally just that; machine nuts of varying sizes slung with nylon cord. I cut my teeth on the escarpment with a rack of BD cams (0. 5. If it could be pulled out, try a better placement. You can take the socket driver off the hex shaft and clean the magnet, or use the magnet to pick screws up. I have checked out the gear placements on top rope (since it’s above my sport climbing highest grade) and I determined the best placements are a mixture of small cams, regular nuts, offsets, and a peenut. I haven't used their torque nuts but I've used other companies hexes a bit. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. My ideal rack is probably going to be a 2-1 ratio of cams to nuts, with other gear added as needed for different climbs. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. A hex can be removed the same way as a nut in most cases. My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. Nuts DMM wallnuts 1-11 BD stoppers 1-13, and microstoppers 3-4 Wild Country hexes 8-9 oh and ropes! We have a 70m single, and 50m halfs. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Maybe. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Crypto I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. If E-Z Lock makes a threaded insert driver, that's also a good choice. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. (which is what torque nuts are). I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. but i’ve also heard witches talking about hexing like it’s no big deal. Offset nuts: you will know when you need them, i. $170. I was wondering what would be a good size range for cams and how many nuts is enough nuts? I have money for about 6-7 cams and for the nuts I was planning 1-11 in normal nuts, 7-11 in offsets, a set of peenuts 1-5 and hexes, 1-4 1. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. The threaded hole is ovalized and the thin wall allows enough flex for the nut to be installed without damaging the threads. I like hexes. Right now I haven't done anything very advanced and I have with me a set of hex and nuts some quick-links, a few cordeletes and carabiners, it all fits in two gear loops without becoming messy What up, Climbit? My brother and I need some advice. Note, once you use this thing, it is nearly impossible to untie so if you want spare cord for something else, I would buy extra and use bunny ear figure eights which you can untie. r/climbing A chip A close button A chip A close button Posted by u/FluidPanda3 - 2 votes and 5 comments One of the top reviews for "The Spell Book for New Witches: Essential Spells to Change Your Life" criticizes its lack of hexes and discouragement from what might be considered dark magic/ letting witches choose their own code of ethics. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. Make sure all the biners spring closed and oil if needed. Plus, a 2 level dip on Daeran would mean no revelation(s) and even slower Oracle spell progression. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Check for burs and sand off any you find. Anywhere they work a cam usually will too though, so i don't use them too much, just once in awhile. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. The thought that it will return to you three fold is a Wiccan belief. Another upside of using strictly hexes and nuts is that if/when you decide to invest in cams you have a better understand of where works well for what kind of gear. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. Climbing technology CiPe seems similar, didn't handle one yet. Posted by u/PulpFiction849 - 16 votes and 29 comments 1. ehh sorry for the wonky formatting :/ I have a full set of wild country hexes. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. . I have a super standard rack, full set of WC nuts and WC cams from . The driver you have puts all of the force on the tabs, which is why it breaks. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. Make sure they are climbing biners and not keychains. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. Yes they're light, but you can place a cam in just about any good hex placement, and there are many places where hexes cannot protect but cams will. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Edelrid protect and Beal unicore seems interesting, my current Simond triple rated rope is holding well and nice to handle, decently light too, and much cheaper than the competition. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. A couple ropes. yosemite) then they are nice i think. if you buy hexes, eventually you will still end up buying cams. This reflects a poor understanding of the forces at play in multipitch climbing. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 59 votes and 44 comments Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. Tricams: this really depends on where you're climbing. Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. We're more used to climbing on two ropes. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Every beginner rack needs some things--giant hexes, ancient ball nuts, stupidly small offset micro-stoppers, mega big bros--that you'll never use but will give us an opportunity to make snarky comments. The document has moved here. If you already have another set of hexes, you can cut the wires and resling them with >/= 5mm cord. you also spend a lot of time faffing about at first, going up a size, then down two sizes then back up to the first size. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. Quite often hexes fit where camming devices won't. Nuts are generally less reliable in diagonal cracks because they are not pulled directly into the constriction when weighted. Before really large cams existed some people would use sawed off pieces of a 2x4 to allow smaller cams to fit in wide cracks. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. CAMP USA Pro Nut. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. 10a and you want bombproof security you’d do well to bring hexes. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. Mar 3, 2012 · S Denny wrote:because cams are much more useful and most of the time safer. Nuts/bolt combo is by far the best because it distributes the torque over the entire brass insert. And having two different sizes like 5/16” & 3/8” together on the same but is invaluable. Posted by u/PaulDaPigeon - 5 votes and 23 comments One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. Look for rust spots and it is probably best to replace the slings. 40 votes, 28 comments. Black Diamond Hexcentrics are ok. 5 and #0. 75 Wild country friends 1-4 Dmm wall nuts 1-11 or wild country rocks 1-11 Maybe doubles of the mid sizes of nuts if you do long pitches. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. For a university rock climbing wall, the chalk bag should still be useful. 28 votes, 22 comments. Replace the cord on the hexes, probably. Then go for the cams. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. 8 miles is also the shortest amount of progress that a party can make (moving slowly, and through difficult terrain) in one day of travel. Share gear, it's muuuuuuch cheaper this way too. nrgdse nbmjv zybyt xbavu tifvbms fjffz jpjuhqhe rixnvvh fckhjq xoybu