Alpinesavvy extended rappel For the complete article: 1) Go here: 3 days ago · If you’re rappelling double strand on an extended rappel device, here's a simple technique that allows you to ascend the rope, covered in this article. Remember where it is; you might need it on the way down. It may The “pre-rigged" (aka stacked) rappel . Here are a few simple ways to make a redundant connection when rigging to rappe Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . ) Premium Art Oct 22, 2021 · The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. (Scroll to the bottom to see one possible solution if you come across anchor bolts with no hardware. 3) This method is trickier on a free hanging rappel, as this makes it harder to unweight the rope to unclip the sling. When properly placed, it’s impossible for the hardware to come off of the cord. Let's have a closer look. Please view the "Rock Climbing: How to Rappel" video by REI below. The way we teach it is to extend the rappel and then rig an auto block on the brake strands, clipped to a carabiner on the belay loop. Cordelette vary in terms of length and diameter, but a textbook cordelette is “7 and 7”: about 7 meters of 7mm cord, tied into one large loop with a well-dressed knot. Short version: If you bounce around on the rope like some special forces cowboy, you can generate between 2 and 3 kN as a temporary peak load. Rescue/retreat situation, when you tie two ropes together to descend a long way as quickly as possible, leaving the ropes in place to hopefully get later or be tossed by another team. A – Anchor: Confirm that the anchor is strong. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. Add a friction hitch above your rappel device. . Oct 24, 2018 · You can cut it up and leave it for rappel anchors. Take an extra minute or so, properly flake your rope, cast a weight like a “rope bomb” rather than hucking off 30 meters in a huge coil, and your chances of a cluster-free rappel are much better. 5 - It makes the rappel more ambidextrous. The Petzl Connect Adjust @petzl_official is a popular tether system, using a short bit of dynamic rope and some clever hardware. Nov 11, 2018 · Here are three much more secure options for alpine rappel hardware: the cheapskate locker, a. The extended sling allows the people waiting to rap to be connected to the rope, but not be yanked A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. This great diagram from Petzl shows a few of them. “ambition exceeding ability”), there can be lots of valid reasons to turn aro Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . Well, good news. It's faster, because the moment one person is off rappel Alpine Savvy - Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap Jan 7, 2019 · When you’re in this situation, and have multiple rappels, put a temporary middle mark on your rope with a strip of tape. For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like a hook or carabiner lets the last person to simply clip and lower off; more efficient and lower risk. But, the strand you pull can make a difference in avoiding snags. Feb 2, 2019 · A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. (This is similar to a rescue style “spider” rappel, when you might have to rap with an injured partner. The key to making this work is what's called a rope block. Apr 10, 2019 · Do you need to fix a rope and have a stout tree available? Lucky you - this is probably the simplest and strongest anchor you could ever build. ) Oct 13, 2024 · Here's the scenario: You're at the top of a 100 meter cliff. You don't need them anymore. traversing and/or overhanging rappel. If you're actually rock climbing in them, you may need a thinner glove with more dexterity. Takeaway: rappel smoothly without bouncing to minimize force on the anchor. Extending your rappel device so it’s not directly on your belay loop is a good idea for many reasons, which we cover in this tip. Maybe the human anchor stays in position and have people start rappelling, while another person starts rigging an anchor Oct 13, 2023 · “Dang it, which rope strand do we need to pull, I forgot!” Here's a simple way to remember. Use them for just about any kind of connection to the anchor, clip two adjacent loops, make a rappel extension, whatever, it's going to be bomber no matter where you clip it. This device is rated for ropes from 6mm to 9. Yo, be careful! Sharp knives and ropes under tension can be a very bad combination, so it's probably better to try the method above before you use an open blade. One useful feature is that it can be extended under load, which makes it handy for knot passing and other rescue-type stuff. When you rappel smoothly, the load to the anchor is pretty much your body weight. Tie a hard back up/catastrophe knot a few meters below in both strands, and clip it to your belay loop with a locker. Jun 14, 2019 · Even though you have a 60 meter rope, you decide to keep the rappels short, because you’re concerned about rope induced rock fall, lots of friction making for a strenuous pull, or the rope getting stuck. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn about this and a few other Crafty Rope Tricks (CRT) to make your next rappel have a happy ending. The set up shown below, with one single runner, is one of various ways to Sep 22, 2024 · Stay on rappel and bounce test the anchor. Just watch the sap on those pine trees . If you see that the first few An extended rappel makes this method safer, because you do not need to unclip your rappel carabiner as described below in method B. Go up the rope to deal with an injured/scared partner Oct 14, 2019 · 2) Rappel extension. Jan 8, 2024 · An extended rappel offers many benefits over rappelling from the belay loop on your harness. This means that everyone in your group has their rappel device on a shoulder length runner, and they are all attached to the rope at one time. Jan 9, 2019 · Modern “personal leashes”, such as the Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS), are made of connected full strength loops. Fall on an overhang or traverse, and are hanging in space or in unclimbable terrain. You toss your rope, and you see The extended rappel, explained — Alpinesavvy. Let your autoblock take your weight. For the complete article: 1) Go here: Feb 7, 2019 · With just a Petzl Grigri and an ascender, you can quickly and safely ascend and descend a fixed rope. Carry a friction hitch or two (especially one that slides easily like a Sterling Hollowblock) and be ready to use it. Apr 29, 2019 · Every climber will someday find themselves at a rappel anchor that's set with a single Less Than Ideal rappel point. And a couple of ways not to. (Note: You can buy quick links properly rated for climbing that are fine to rappel from, such as these from CAMP. A pre-rigged rappel increases efficiency and (usually) reduces risk. ) Sep 19, 2018 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Jun 2, 2024 · So, what exactly is an extended rappel? Simply put, rather than attaching your rappel device directly to your belay loop in the standard manner, you add some sort of runner / carabiner combination to “extend” it farther away from your body. There are lots of different ways to rig it, and one quick and easy one is with your locker draw. Be wary of the “bail trail”. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Again, like the quicklink, rings are something that you probably don’t need on every alpine climb. You rappel on the full strength climbing rope, which is fixed to the anchor by the Jan 10, 2019 · What’s a pre-rigged rappel? It’s when everyone on the climbing team (or, as many of them as can comfortably fit near the anchor) attaches to the rope at the same time with an extended rappel. Oct 24, 2018 · Building multiple rappel anchors with your own gear, where you may need to conserve your equipment and want to leave only a single carabiner behind at the anchor. For a rappel extension, here we’re using a double bowline tied through the belay loop. Here, the backup knot is tied below the brake hand rather than above it. See some examples, and lear May 17, 2024 · This can allow full length rappels with less rope, weight and bulk. Mar 26, 2020 · First person rappelling goes on rappel, single strand, blue rope. As you start your double rope rappel, clip your tether carabiner to the rope that needs to get pulled. Try to avoid tossing one big coil of a rappel rope and hoping it's going to pay out smoothly down the cliff face. The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. For the complete article: 1) Go here: alpinesavvy. Extended rappel so that the auto block doesn’t get all tangled in the belay device. ) Maybe a beginner climber who’s not comfortable with rappelling. Apr 4, 2020 · While some people are fine with using random hardware store quick links for rappel anchors, I'm not one of them. Watch the video for a scary moment of what can happen if you don't! Oct 19, 2018 · Scenario: You’re descending a route with a team of four, and you have one rope. Apr 3, 2025 · This has a few applications in self rescue, rope ascending, rigging mechanical advantage systems, adjusting rescue litters, and impressing your knot-nerd pals. Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. When you do this for the first time, you might actually amaze yourself, because it’s so fast and easy, it almost seems like a magic trick. 5mm. You and your partner are rappelling with a single rope. It gives the rappeller more space to hold the brake strands, as well as reducing the force needed to slow/stop the rappel. Dec 27, 2018 · R – Rappel Device/Ropes: Check that the carabiner attached to your device is locked, both strands of the rope have been loaded correctly in the device, and the rope is properly threaded through the rappel anchor. There are only two anchors: one at the top and one at 50 meters. Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2 Dec 23, 2018 · 3) “Rappel Z” with an extended rappel. Increases efficiency: the moment the first person is down the second person can start. Note that you need to attach the autoblock to the leg loop, and it might also add an unnecessary extra amount of friction and cluster. This “crochets” a rope into a series of short chain links, reducing the length by about a factor of six. The knot is on the left side of the anchor, so they are pulling the purple May 15, 2025 · 1 - Cast, don’t throw, your rappel rope. Lets you use a stacked, or pre-rigged, rappel. (Then you probably need to do the #CraftyRopeTrick of an extended rappel, which we cover in this article. Jan 14, 2019 · An extended rappel makes this method safer, because you do not need to unclip your rappel carabiner as described below in method B. There is a right (and definitely a wrong) way to rappel with a heavy haul bag. Feb 15, 2022 · Note that in this case, with a double rope rappel, you’re casting the middle of the rope, not the ends. If it holds, good. Why might you want to use a rappel extension? Easier to use a third hand / autoblock backup. Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. Jan 7, 2019 · A low risk and fast way to do this is to rig an extended rappel with both climbers doing so at the same time. This has the advantage of working with an autoblock backup, if you choose to use it. If you do them wrong, you could die. This is one of the most common ways to set up a rappel and allows you to remain in an ergonomic position while descending. Jan 26, 2019 · Most climbers don’t give much thought as to which strand of the rope they pull after a rappel. com/blog/the-extended-rappel - longer article on my website about The extended rappel, explained — Alpinesavvy Extended Belay Rappel with an extended rappel, you can clip an auto block directly to your belay loop. Friction Hitch Rappel Backup Adding a friction hitch to the rope above or below your rappel device is the best backup. Think of casting a fishing line. If you anticipate doing multiple rappels on a seldom climbed route, and weight is not a huge concern, you might want to bring a couple. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. How difficult is the pitch below or above, and what’s the skill level of the climbers? Dec 13, 2022 · Long lengths of skinny rope, such as a 6 mm rappel pull cord, can easily turn into a hopeless tangle if you're not careful. This is pretty hard to describe in words, so check out the diagram below. Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. The two climbers are doing a multipitch double rope rappel. Mar 8, 2023 · I also have basically all the different options and (1) use the pink Beal Dynaloop for anchoring at the top of a sketchy stance to set up topropes on bolts, (2) got the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust for long series of rappels after multi-pitch, but (3) generally just use the girth-hitched 120cm Dyneema - paying attention to avoid shock loading Aug 11, 2023 · A popular approach to crevasse rescue is to use a 2:1 “drop C” as the primary mechanical advantage system. 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" Feb 16, 2019 · For a heavy bag, you essentially put the bag on rappel, and then attach yourself somewhere to that system. May 7, 2023 · Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Aug 29, 2018 · If you’re trying to pass a knot on a completely free hanging rappel, things get more complicated. Dec 27, 2021 · When tethering to a rappel anchor, it can be comforting to know that you’re connected to both “halves” of the anchor hardware instead of just one; especially true at a hanging stance or with questionable anchor hardware. Clip tether to anchor. a. If it’s a tree, make sure it’s alive, large enough to hold your weight, and Feb 15, 2024 · When doing multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by implementing a few small but significant efficiency steps. This is a modified figure 8 with a few extra horns on it, similar to rappel devices popular for canyoneering. If you have a multi pitch rappel, have the first person down use the “J loop” system: tie a figure 8 on a bight in both strands and clip it to the anchor. Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. They have to be lowered, so it's a rappel for every one. Pros: Sep 11, 2023 · That noted, as a double rope rappel with the Beal Backup line, the friction is sufficient with most carabiners. You have one 80 meter rope. Feb 19, 2021 · If you rappel a lot, you may wear through the palm. Oct 1, 2020 · Using a rappel extension is a good idea for a lot of reasons, which we cover in detail here. It won’t last through the day, but it’s going to make setting up all your subsequent rappels faster and easier. This lets you use either hand as needed. All are plenty strong and inexpensive. The extended rappel means climbers can check each other, which reduces risk. Sep 1, 2021 · The sharp edge might damage your rope, and if you rappel, the extra friction might make it impossible to pull your rope down. You partner carried a lightweight 8. A good bounce on a static tether puts about 3x your body weight onto the anchor. Can't make the moves and need to do some rope climbing to get past the hard part. On your next vertical camping trip, use a “big wall bucket” with a Gamma lid to keep delicate items from getting crushed, and to keep day use gear close at hand. There's a weight (lure) on the end. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. But it has a few downsides: it’s Nov 22, 2019 · Is the anchor for a multi pitch lead belay, top rope anchor or a rappel anchor? Loads vary a LOT between these. com/blog/the-extended-rappel - longer article on my website about Jul 23, 2022 · They report that it can be downclimbed, but it's spicy - and might be better for the newbies to rappel. BCEP recommends rappelling using the extended rappel configuration. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it. From the top, you need to make some double rope rappels to get down. Feb 16, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices. And, as mentioned above, using a third hand /autoblock backup is usually good practice, but it's not shown here for clarity. If it doesn't, you're still backed up on your rappel rope. I feel like this article does a good job explaining both pros and cons of the system. Most of the time it won't. An extended rappel also makes it easier to pre-rig a rappel– see this excellent post from Alpine Savvy for more on that. Still, in a standard setup, a single strand rappel on any of the common skinny lines is a terrible option. May 9, 2023 · If you're on some ultra-steep or reachy sport route that requires extended quickdraws, here are some ways to do it. Here's a complete article on it. Jul 5, 2023 · You and your partner have a 60 meter rope, but you need to make a rappel that was bolted for a 70 meter rope. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. Conceptually it's pretty simple. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. Feb 27, 2025 · Consider shorter rappels. Here's how to quickly rig a stout anchor that will position you in the perfect spot with a ready-made masterpoint to belay or haul. But maybe for 90% of the things you do in the snow, like digging snow pits, brushing snow off the tent, approach hiking, racking your gear, excavating your car, snowball fights, walking the dog, etc . May 17, 2024 · This can allow full length rappels with less rope, weight and bulk. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. Please, never consider doing this and always leave behind a $5 carabiner instead. Stop a short distance above the damaged rope strand. A friction hitch backup, a firefighter’s belay, or the use of an assisted braking device. Look for fixed gear on the way up. is there broad consensus on the better or safer method of rappelling? Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Now the first person can rappel with Grigri on a single strand. But, if you have any one or combination of these potential rappel problems: high winds. ) Setting up a Rappel Device in the "Extended Rappel" Configuration. Be it challenging weather, poor route conditions, route finding errors, or just general loss of mojo, there can be lots of valid reasons to turn around on an alpine route. However, unless you have Oct 18, 2019 · A rappel extension is not required for this carabiner brake, but it's good practice to use one, so we're showing it. 3,469 likes, 85 comments - alpinesavvy on May 7, 2023: "Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . While secure on the rappel ropes, clip your tether into the masterpoint, and give it a few good bounces. com . You may be tempted to get out your knife and try to cut away the problem. ) Rigging an extended rappel (not shown) or using a Grigri or similar assisted braking belay device is a fine idea, because both of these can be easily converted to an ascending system if needed, as we cover here and here. Aug 11, 2018 · Canyoning, where it’s common to rappel on a single strand. Standard practice would be to have everyone rappel on two strands to the next station, and then have everyone rappel again to get to the ground. Optional but recommended: test pull. Nov 23, 2024 · Here’s one method to rappel past a damaged section of the rope. org Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Yes, we hate to leave gear behind, but if you HAVE to leave your beloved #3 Camalot for a rappel anchor, then do it without hesitation. Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. com/instagram 1) Google: "alpinesavvy extended rappel”. The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. com/blog/the-extended-rappel-explained?format=amp See full list on mountaineers. You get the idea. You get to the rappel spot, which requires two raps on a single rope to get down to safe ground. 5mm rope in her pack, and you now need to use it to make your long rappels. Easier to rig your rappel device correctly, especially if you have on lots of clothing Jul 22, 2019 · You top out on a pitch, and see a perfect tree anchor 10 feet back from the edge. A rope block allows the rope to move through the anchor in one direction but not the other. Dec 12, 2023 · The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, is a technique where both partners rig their rappel device at the same time, usually with an extension. Nov 17, 2018 · A rappel ring is a round, smooth ring, made of aluminum or steel. Dec 31, 2018 · If your rappel ends on the ground, make it the task of the first person down to untie both of the knots. alpinesavvy. Oct 16, 2020 · Another approach, which can further increase speed and reduce risk, is for the second climber with the plaquette belay device to use an extended rappel and pre-rig their device on the rope. Rappel situation down terrain where at least one person on the team can safely downclimb. Keep your rappel device and auto block on the rope for now. Plus, it’s inexpensive. Mar 16, 2025 · Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. Sometimes I’ll use it to pre-rig my groups rappel, but I’ll always use it for a free-hanging rap. Learn some of the advantages of the drop C over the 3:1 Z drag, some easy hacks to make it work even better, and how to overcome a couple of potential problems. Step 3 - After securing themselves with a leash/lanyard to the anchor, the first person ties the end of the rope and a loop of the rope into the rappel anchor, fixing the two strands. vegetation, deep cracks, or other rope eating features Check out the screen grab. If after doing this they add a third hand autoblock under their device, both strands of the rope are essentially locked in place. Leave a minimum of gear behind. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. Peak force on a rappel anchor, 2-3 kN; theoretical max force on a lead anchor, about 9kN. May 18, 2024 · I don’t tend to use an extended rap every time, but I do use it some. k. If the brake hand comes off, the autoblock immediately grabs the rope and stops the climber. (This is a Nov 29, 2018 · On a multi pitch rappel, a good way to do this is threading one rope end through the lower anchor and then tying the ends together to be sure the rope strands stay connected to the lower anchor. You can rig it “bunny ears” style, to utilize anchors that are very far apart. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. Mar 2, 2025 · Have each rappel anchor simple to build and easily strong enough to rappel on. Don't be tempted to depart from your route to go towards a retreat anchor that someone else Jun 1, 2023 · Notes . Lowering can ensure the first person gets there and does not find themself dangling in space at the end of the rappel. You toss your rope, and you see Be it challenging weather, poor conditions, route finding errors, or general loss of mojo (a. Feb 8, 2024 · Alpinesavvy thanks Angelique Brown for translating the French technical documents mentioned in this article, Richard Goldstone for editorial comments, ACMG Alpine Guide Sean Isaac for some FAQ details, and IFMGA Certified Guide Patrick Ormond for a few extra fixed point belay tips. Now, the stopper nuts or no longer needed. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Learn about the extended rappel in detail here. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. https://www. Oct 20, 2023 · If you use any of the ideas or information presented here, you acknowledge that the technique may be inaccurate or out of date, and you agree that Alpinesavvy LLC is not responsible or liable for any injury (or worse) that might result from you using the techniques presented here. taped gate carabiner, a quicklink, and a rappel ring that’s actually tied through the cord, instead of being girth hitched. Nov 25, 2018 · Here's a quote on this topic from “The Mountain Guide Manual” by Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo (pg 243): “Because of all the dynamic aspects to a crevasse fall - climbers sliding on the snow surface and the rope and bending over and cutting into the lip - it is becoming acceptable to use static rope. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Nov 27, 2018 · Another approach to expediting a group rappel is to have everyone use an extended rappel, and do what's called a “pre-rig”. Feed 2-3 arm lengths of slack through your rappel device and auto block so your partner can get started. While it can be helpful in advanced rope rescue scenarios, it’s not required in crevasse rescue, and in the opinion of various experts, does not need to be taught to beginners. Building any kind of rappel anchor with your own gear; after all, you’re a proud and frugal dirtbag climber! Dec 6, 2022 · Another rappel device option is the Edelrid Mago 8. This puts the weight of the pig on the rappel carabiner, and not on you. Maybe it's a skinny rap ring, or maybe it's a small diameter hardware store quick link, like this example. With some tomfoolery (see the Reverso section below), sufficient friction can be achieved with slick ropes or a single strand. low angle. (Yep, you might make an extra rappel or two, but that is far preferable to having a stuck rope. (Harness and third hand / autoblock not shown for clarity. Because they both rig for rappel at the same time, and also increases speed, because the second can begin their rap the moment the first person is at the next Jun 7, 2024 · The extended rappel, explained Join my email - get a Premium Article sampler I’d like to send you a special link to nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages, AND a short weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter. This can be done with a knot or a carabiner. Bottom line - tuck away your hair, beard, pack straps, hoodie strings, dreadlocks, and any stray clothing whenever you rappel, extended rap or not. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . You typically would add a friction hitch or ascender above the knot, weight that, remove your rappel device and reattach it below the knot, unweight the friction hitch / ascender, remove it, and continue rappelling. Apr 6, 2023 · Stuck rappel rope (need to ascend it and fix the problem, yikes!) Rappel down too far and miss your next anchor. The Petzl Connect Adjust @petzl_official is a popul" Jun 2, 2024 · Bottom line - tuck away your hair, beard, pack straps, hoodie strings, dreadlocks, and any stray clothing whenever you rappel, extended rap or not. Explore AlpineSavvy for 400+ tips like this. Learn how it works, along with some cautionary notes. Go hands-free on your rappel. Newbies rappel off the human anchor and best climber goes last. (Note, I don’t have this device and I've not tried it. Also, learn some specialized crafty rappel tricks if you have a traverse or overhang. Yell “off rappel”. Because the rappel is in front of you and elevated, the rope runs between your legs rather than over one hip. CAMP (Italy) sell CE rated quick links that are the right sizes, right price, and insanely strong. Note: if you’re doing any kind of big wall climbing or going up multiple pictures of rope in a day, you’re probably going to find it more efficient to use the more traditional two jumar system. The line is carefully spooled on the reel. Because they both rig for rappel at the same time, and also increases speed, because the second can begin their rap the moment the first person is at the next If you’re rappelling double strand on an extended rappel device, Popular Alpinesavvy 3/2/25 Anchors 2, Popular Alpinesavvy 3/2/25. You rappel on the full strength climbing rope, which is fixed to the anchor by the Apr 24, 2025 · The standard rappel practice of “toss-rope-with-a-knot-on-each-end-and-hope-for-the-best” usually works fine in friendly conditions. The set up shown below, with one single runner, is one of various ways to Jul 7, 2023 · You may not know exactly the distance to the next anchors. In addition to connecting quickdraws like this, you could also use a 60 or 120 cm sling. Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. A daisy chained rope is pretty much impossib Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. Doing two shorter rappels, using natural protection is going to preserve more gear than one long one. See 400+ more climbing tips like this at AlpineSavvy. Aug 9, 2019 · Step 2 - The first person ties into the end of the rope, and then lowers themselves through their rappel device to the rappel anchor on the cliff edge. Solution: the daisy chain. Mar 3, 2021 · First rappeler arrives at the lower anchor. Aug 22, 2022 · When you need to rappel the same route you just climbed, the transition at the top can often be a big time suck. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Yikes, your rope is too short, whaddya do? One answer: the extended rappel. Let's be clear on one thing: this is no time to be a cheapskate. Check it out Nov 26, 2018 · You’ve finished a long multi pitch climb, using a single 10 mm rope. ) Dec 27, 2018 · The munter mule overhand, or MMO knot, is a load releasable hitch. kvqqvgzkrkbwwalhoakreqowlvzactxwvkeatykjugrlwcagw